最美嫁衣：婚纱的变革(2)

　　Alice Temperley, whose embellished Jean dress is displayed in the show, is influenced by the silhouettes and spirit of the 1920s. Why has the romantic, ultra-feminine gown endured for so long in her view? “The wedding dress is traditional, timeless and defies trends,” she says, recalling her own wedding dress, made with “antique lace and 1920s sequins that I had collected since childhood”.

　　Making a statement

　　It’s all in the detail, agrees Gareth Pugh, who has created stage outfits for the likes of Lady Gaga and Kylie Minogue – and whose dramatic-but-romantic bridal dress for stylist Katie Shillingford features in the exhibition. “A costume for the stage and a wedding dress both have very specific roles to fulfil,” Pugh tells BBC Culture. “However, the approach and process are very different. Usually with stage costume, comfort and the ability to move around easily are top of the list, along with being visually striking.

　　“With a wedding dress there are layers of subtlety that you can achieve that you just can’t replicate on stage – usually because a wedding dress is viewed in much closer quarters. And a bride is more willing to forego comfort.” And how does Pugh think the wedding dress will evolve in the future? “I think the idea of dressing up and presenting a side of oneself that is a fantasy will always appeal,” he says. “For most, a wedding is perhaps the one day where they are allowed free rein to really go to town. There will always be a niche market for the traditional white meringue, but I like the idea of the dress being a little more personal – something that is made with love and care, something that takes time and patience - a lot like the marriage itself.”

　　And like marriage itself, wedding attire continues to evolve. As Edwina Ehrman puts it, “Gay weddings and cross-cultural weddings are both examples of how new traditions are being established.” All of which feeds into the multi-billion-dollar global wedding-attire industry. “There is definitely a spirit of competitiveness around weddings now – the bridezilla or groomzilla phenomenon is real,” says Ehrman. And the alternative-wedding bridezilla who wishes to make a conscious statement through her wedding can be just as competitive – in fact, some are ditching the white wedding dress to make a point about gender politics.

　　That’s nonsensical, says Ehrman. “If you want to wear a coloured dress on your wedding day, or trousers, or go barefoot, go ahead. But the idea that wearing a white wedding dress is going to somehow enslave you is absurd – equality and respect are what matter in a marriage, not what you wear at your wedding. When it comes to modern bridal wear we are just incredibly lucky to have such a diversity of choice.”

　　婚纱并非自古就是白色。随着V&A博物馆里又一轮婚纱展览的举行，林赛·贝克(Lindsay baker)对婚礼服饰的流行趋势和禁忌做了详细的调查。

　　据英国广播公司(BBC)报道，在西方文化中，新娘身着白色婚纱已经成为一种约定俗成的模式，但如此流行的白色婚纱到底有什么样的含义呢?答案跟我们想的不太一样。根据新举行的一次展览所探索的婚礼服饰历史，新娘穿白色婚纱的传统并不象征童贞或纯洁，其主要的功能是为了炫耀。

　　“纯洁这层含义并不是主要的，”管理人员艾德温拿·埃尔曼(Edwina Ehrman)告诉BBC文化栏目的记者说：“这完全是关于是否富有。整个18和19世纪，能买得起婚纱的人都是穿着白色礼服结婚的。”在那个年代，人们还需要费力地用搓衣板手洗衣服，而一件白色的婚纱几乎不可能彻底的清洗。“婚纱仅需穿一次，所以只有很富有的人才会穿。”伦敦维多利亚与艾尔伯特博物馆的展览《婚纱(1775-2-014)》，向人们展示了婚纱是怎样在过去几个世纪随着流行趋势和社会变革改变的，同样也改变了我们长期以往对婚纱的一些猜测。

　　1840年，维多利亚女王身着白色婚纱与艾尔伯特王子结婚，这使纯白色(或乳白色)的婚纱因而变得广受欢迎。她图腾式的权利无可否认。对许多新娘和设计师来说，这都是一种充满希望而又浪漫的怀旧之情。“这会产生变革式的影响，”埃尔曼说道：“如果你现在已经同你的伴侣同居或者已经有了孩子，你很可能想要在婚礼上穿一件白色婚纱，因为这会让你觉得步入了一段感情的新阶段。

　　白色是最温暖的颜色

　　所以说新娘在婚礼上身穿白色婚纱已经成为一种习俗，如果新娘选择其他颜色的婚纱，她会被认为是勇敢且具有反叛精神的：试想一下身穿紫色舞裙的巨星黛塔·范·提思(Dita Von Teese)，一身塑身衣的薇薇恩·韦斯特伍德(Vivienne Westwood)，穿着由约翰·加里阿诺(John Galliano)设计，带有引人注目的数字针织衫的歌星格温·史蒂芬妮(Gwen Stefani)，或是在最近不顾习俗身穿粉色婚纱结婚的安妮·海瑟薇(Anne Hathway)、杰西卡·贝尔(Jessica Biel)以及瑞茜·威瑟斯彭(Reese Witherspoon)。当设计师奥斯卡·德拉伦塔(Oscar de la Renta)和王薇薇于近期首次以非白色婚纱收藏亮相时，这种风格则被视为保守婚礼服饰产业的一种极端浪潮。

　　然而，穿粉色、紫色、黄色、红色(中国典型的新娘礼服)或者其他颜色婚纱结婚在西方文化中已经不再是什么新鲜事，更不会被视为是一种无礼的行为。埃尔曼说：“几个世纪以来，对时尚感兴趣的新娘常常会穿不同颜色的礼服。而且结婚后她们还会继续穿这些礼服，并为了顺应潮流或是根据身材的变化不断修改。”女士们不会临时去买一件新的礼服，而只是想在现有的衣服中找一件最合适的用于婚礼。这也是很常见的事。

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